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English Appetites

A look at some favourite British treats rich in flavour and tradition


By Alexandra Christopoulos | March 30, 2011


While food is a basic necessity, sometimes it is nice to be reminded of the pleasurable roots of various dishes. Cultures all over the world have various food rituals, which at times may be more beloved than the food itself. British cuisine is no exception. From sourcing simple, locally grown ingredients to dishes that are fit for royalty, these well-known culinary items are as rich to one’s palette as they are in history.


Crumpets

Tea and crumpets are a traditional and popular pairing. It doesn’t come as a surprise, then, that the delectable duo is rooted in a delicious culinary history.

Most often served with breakfast, or as a light snack, crumpets are said to have been invented by the Anglo-Saxons. Early incarnations consisted of hard pancakes cooked on a griddle, which evolved to become the soft and spongy batches enjoyed during the Victorian era thanks to the introduction of yeast. Adding a light sprinkling of baking powder to the dough helps to develop the characteristic holes on top.

Although the crumpet is quite distinct from the English muffin, the two do have some similarities. Both are made using flour and yeast, but the crumpet has a flat top with small pores. Commonly cooked on one side, its shape comes from being cooked in a shallow ring in a griddle or pan.

If the traditional British treat is calling your name, there are countless flavour possibilities available. Generally eaten when hot and slathered with butter, or with additional toppings such as cheese, honey, poached egg, jam or marmalade, there are many sweet and savoury ways to enjoy a crumpet.

And if you are inspired to create your own batch, author and chef Linda Collister’s homemade crumpet recipe is a rewarding experience. Starting her career as sous-chef to Queen Elizabeth, the Queen Mother, Collister’s recipe is from The Bread Book. Big Oven has a slight variation on the recipe here.

Cherries Jubilee


As the latter part of its name suggests, Cherries Jubilee was served in honour of Queen Victoria’s Diamond Jubilee in 1897, which ended the already indulgent historical celebration on a sweet note. With the recipe generally credited to Auguste Escoffier, the dessert consists of cherries flambéed with Kirsch (cherry brandy) and served over vanilla ice cream

Generally speaking, the Diamond Jubilee is a term used to mark a 60th anniversary, whether it be the 60th year a monarch has held reign, or a 60th wedding anniversary. To date, Queen Victoria has been the only British monarch to have this special honour bestowed upon him or her. In 2012, however, Queen Elizabeth II will be fast approaching her Diamond Jubilee in the first week of June, which also happens to be Her Majesty’s birthday.

Learning more about the dessert’s creator reveals much about the treat’s past, and the historical influences that spurred it on to culinary greatness. Considered by many in the culinary world as one of the world’s first celebrity chefs, Escoffier was proclaimed in his lifetime as “the finest cook I ever met” by César Ritz, of the world-famous Ritz Hotels. In his teen years, Escoffier left his kitchen post at Le Petit Moulin Rouge in Paris and joined the military during the Franco-Prussian War, becoming chef to a variety of regimental commanders. When he returned five years later, Escoffier resumed his duties as head chef back at Le Petit Moulin Rouge, feeding such dignitaries as the Prince of Wales. His experience in the military taught him the importance of preserving food, which began his work on methods of canning meats, vegetables and sauces.

In 1890, he was appointed by Ritz to develop an elegant restaurant at the Savoy Hotel in London, where he invented the Cherries Jubilee seven years later to contribute to the celebration of Queen Victoria’s Diamond Jubilee.

The Escoffier Cookbook and Guide to the Fine Art of Cookery, an American translation of the chef’s definitive Guide Culinaire, includes 2, 973 recipes including the original cherries jubilee recipe, should you decide to stay as true to tradition as possible.

Scone

Scones, the biscuit-like pastries or quick breads that are often rolled into round shapes, can be savoury or sweet.

Originally made with oats and griddle-baked in Scotland, the quick bread is believed by some to have taken its name from Scone, or the Stone of Destiny, where Scottish kings were once crowned. Today’s versions are usually flour-based and baked in the oven. Baked in a variety of shapes, scones can appear as triangles, rounds, squares and even diamonds.

According to some historians, the scone became an essential part of the afternoon tea ritual in England when Anna Russell, the Duchess of Bedford, requested that her servants bring tea and a few sweet breads, including scones, for her to enjoy. Having been so delighted by such treats, she made it a daily occurrence, beginning the tradition of afternoon tea , which would take place around four in the afternoon. Today, scones are still served with the traditional Devonshire cream topping in Britain.

Additional roots of the word “scone” are as diverse as the number of ways the treat can be served. The earliest record of the word comes from a translation of The Aeneid in 1513. The word may also be derived from Dutch, “schoonbrot,” or “schonbrot” in German, meaning “fine bread.” Alternatively it is said to also be from the Gaelic “sgonn,” meaning “large mouthful.”

If the warm and inviting setting of a fresh batch of scones has enticed your inner baker, a great beginner’s recipe may be found on British celebrity chef sensation Nigella Lawson’s website.


Yorkshire pudding

While the famous pudding’s exact origins are said to be unknown, the first recorded recipe appeared in The Whole Duty of a Woman in 1737, and consisted of a simple mixture of flour, eggs, milk and salt. As history would continue to reveal, Yorkshire pudding earned a solid place in the culinary hearts of the region from which it hails: Yorkshire, England.

Also referred to sometimes as “pockets,” Yorkshire pudding is made from a simple batter of flour, eggs and milk, with the finished product commonly served alongside roast beef and gravy.

As one of Britain’s many food staples, the beloved dish made waves in the media in 2007, when MP Anne McIntosh campaigned for Yorkshire puddings to be granted the same protected status as French champagne and Greek feta cheese.

“The people of Yorkshire are rightly and fiercely proud of the Yorkshire pudding,” the BBC reported McIntosh as saying. “It is something which has been cherished and perfected for centuries in Yorkshire.”

To help welcome Yorkshire pudding into your life, culinary idol Jamie Oliver’s original recipe is a great start, and is accessible and simple to make.

Although the above items explored here are a few of many delectables, it is important to remember — whether you are an experienced cook, or just starting out in the kitchen — that the most enjoyable foods you may place on one’s plate are a balance of necessary nutrition combined with the happiness of feasting on the foods you love. •


 



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